If you have any questions or comments about Max ATVs or how to do business with the 4 Dot Ranch, please post them here and I will answer them. If you want to give me compliments, that is OK, too.
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Montana's authorized Max ATV dealer. Selling the Max since May of 1994.
Max ATVs
12 comments:
Have trouble shifting from fwd to reverse about sixty % of the time some times it goes easily this is what I don't like about it is there a way to solve this problem doing every think according to instruction do they make a wiper blade to fit the winshield this is another problem if you sell anything for it I will be happy to purchase it no problem with machine or trans. just dont like the shift part of it other then that it is a nice machine will go where my Honda ATV won't. RAY
Ray, The sometimes hard shift is just part of the beast (gosh, can't have everything perfect). It does get easier with more hours on the machine. One trick is to shift just as you are coming to a stop; that little speck of motion usually allows things to line up. That is the problem - the gears have to be lined up for the one gear to slide into the other (that's why body rocking or setting the brake and body rocking usually works).
Don't really know of a wiper. I see some of the 4 wheeled utility vehicles have them (Mule, Rhino, etc.) but I don't know if they would adapt to the Max windshield. I keep thinking that I should make a hand operated one that would clip on to the top of the windshield, but No, I haven't done that yet. I have it in my mind with all that other stuff, but just not enough time or the right tools.
Thanks,
Fred Sowerwine
Fred,
Nice blog here. I love all terrain vehicles and just started my own sight at http://www.atvsoffroad.net Visit us some time.
Hi Fred;
the conversion of a Max to a dual shifter virtually elimintes any shifting probs that one may have, I did it to my own Max IV and it solved the problem ,I will now do it to the rest of my rental units
Hi
I just bought a 1996 max iv 600t. I need to learn how to drive it. I also want to learn how to maintain it. I can't even shift into forward or reverve without gringding gears.
I also noticed one side the chain is tight and the other side the chain is tight.
Can you give me some input or where to go for it. Wgere can I get an owners, repair or service manual.
Thanks Dave
Dave, you can get manuals from the factory at (800) 255-2511.
To shift, idle down and with your foot on the holding break, bring the steering laterals to the middle of their travel position; while using your body to rock the machine forward and backward, shift gears.
If you are in motion, shift just as you come to a stop.
It is important to not force the shift as you will just bend the linkage. The gears have to be in line for the shifter to be able to move hence the reason for the movement created by rocking your body.
To check or adjust chain tension, have at least the side you are working on off the ground (it is easier and quicker if all six are in the air).
how deep of water can u go in these things we are looking at one but know nothing about them other than they look fun ;)
Anonymous, Max machines float so depth is irrelevant. They aren't really like a boat, so one should stay reasonably close to shore in large bodies of water, in my opinion. They are fun - neat machines.
Just wondering if you have any tricks to keep the tires on the bead when running such low air pressure in the tires on these machines?
Cole
Cole,
Keeping the beads clean, smooth (fix any cuts with black silicone) and completely free of tire lubricant (just use water) are the first line of defense. If that fails, you can try a good caulk and glue the tires to the rims (want to use a product that will allow them to be removed when necessary).
What PSI do you recommend running in the tires and what type of caulk would you use to glue the tires to the rim?
Cole,
2.5 to 3 PSI. The problem could be your rims. If there is any rust in the bead area, use steel wool to remove it and repaint. Any good siliconized acrylic latex will work, but having the bead on the tire and the bead seat area on the rim clean and smooth is necessary for the caulk to work. Most everything I have caulked, I have cleaned and smoothed; don't really know if it was the caulk or just the cleaning. I know caulk without preparation does not work. Might want to use 4 PSI for a few hours of use to make sure the beads are well set after cleaning before trying the caulk.
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